Lasser Yankthi River in Darma valley ,October, 2009
There is an early snowfall in Darma valley this year. The people are yet to vacate their summer villages. The agricultural operations for the season are almost over. They are busy making their last minute preparations like drying the grain and herbs.
Here are some images of my day hike to Sipu village from Tidang along Lasser yankthi river. The weather was absolutely clear. Not a single trace of cloud in the sky.
Dhauli Ganga river as seen from Dakar village (Towards Dantu )
Lasser Yankthi river: A view from Marcha
The path to Bidang - From where one can cross Sin la to enter into Byas valley and see Parvati Tal. Chota kailash at Jolingkong. Also from Bidang, by following Dhauliganga to its origin, Dawe, Darma pass can be reached.
Dakar village. See the stone temple and Alam ( Birch pole ) worshipped by the people
From Dakar village towards Dantu.
The field are not cultivated thesedays as more and more natives stay in the lower hills or plains. Dakar is virtually deserted. Not more than ten villagers come here in the summers for cultivation.
It's Autumn time.
The upper Lasser yankthi river valley is a riot of browns, oranges, yellows, scarletts. A view from Sipu village. Down flows Lasser yankthi river.
Tidang village. It is situated at the confluence of Lasser yankthi and Dhauli Ganga rivers.
Apart from native villagers, Gaddi shephards from Himachal Pradesh bring their flocks of sheep for grazing in the high altitude pastures.
Lasser Yankthi river at Tidang. In the distance you can see the snow laden track that goes towards Bidang..
This too wears a deserted look. It is said that that the Marcha bhotiyas of Niti- Mana valleys in Garhwal migrated from this village ( or it could be vice versa ). In the heydays of trade with Tibet, all these high valley people must be meeting in the trade centers of Tibet and some migration must have taken place. It's easier and less time taking in summers to go to the valleys in Garhwal via Tibet plains than crossing high passes in the Himalaya.
Another view of Marcha village.
A view of Tidang from Marcha.. In the middle is Lasser Yankthi river.
The bridge across Lasser yankthi. Sipu is some 2 km from Marcha village. One goes about 1 km along the Lasser yankthi and then crosses the river. Then there is a climb to reach the higher ground on which Sipu is situated..
The road to Sipu village.
See the ridge in the middle of the picture, where Sipu is located.
Sipu temple premises.
Round and elongated stones are worshipped as Sivalinga.
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Sipu mandir where Shiva is worshipped/ I guess it's Chaudhara mountain peaks in the background..
Sipu village landscape.
As it's October and the the cultivation for the season is completed, the handful of villagers started moving to their winter homes in Tall Naya Basti near Kalika ( Dharchula Tehsil )
Upper Lasser Yankthi river valley from Sipu village. Towards Pokong, Dongrong, Kharsa, Domolia, and Nassa. Follow the river upstream for 12km to reach Anchari tal.
Mani Stone found near Sipu village.a reminder that once there was greater interaction with traders from Tibet and the religion too. These stones are found in many villages and worshipped, though there is no trace of Buddhism practiced in this part of India
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Chaudhara peaks from Sipu. Beyond these peaks is Ralam valley.
Amazing blog page for me! Having skipped Sipu during our Darma trek it was nice to see this and get updated. Tidang and the trail to SinLa look familar enough.
ReplyDeleteI am surprised though to read "Apart from native villagers, Gaddi shephards from Himachal Pradesh bring their flocks of sheep for grazing in the high altitude pasture" .... I didnt think they would come all the way from HP, to this eastern part of Uttarakhand!!!
Thanks for sharing.
- KS
Gaddi shephards are experienced pastoralists. Actually they don't bring their flock all the way from Himachal Pradesh. In winters they stay in the lower hills of Terai forests near Tanakpur. In summers they take their sheep to high altitude valleys like Darma, Johar, Byas valleys. After the snow melt, the bugyals are covered with very nutritious grass which is good for the sheep. During their summer stay, they bring their rations and exchange sheep for provisions with the native people in the valley in a symbiotic relationship. In winters they take some time off to visit their native places in Chamba district of Himachal pradesh. They sell off the grown up sheep along the way during migration or in their winter place of rest. As with other aspects of traditional ways of living, this kind of semi-nomadic life too is on the verge of disappearance.
ReplyDeleteRajkumar
Raj, Thanks for detailed explanation! :)
ReplyDeleteThe change of landscape from green in June to brown in October is a bit depressing for me. But the snow clad mountains in the background and the crystal clear water of Lasser Yankthi are ones that compensate the loss of greenery.
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing.
Sadanand
Amazing pictures Raj, thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteA few years ago I was surprised to see Gaddis in Chilla forest range (east of Rishikesh). If you remember there was a hue and cry around moving them out of the Rajaji NP core area. Presumably some of them were moved further east to the Kumaon forest ranges. Apparently Gaddis moved out of their traditional habitat in the Pir Panjal to areas in HP and Garhwal in the last 2 centuries.
Hi Raj,
ReplyDeleteAwesome write up. This will be very helpful for all of us who are planning to go there. Btw, what is the latest on the weather, etc over there?
An amazing piece of photo-story. I am from the Byans Valley belonging to the same community. Thank you for showing us to the world.
ReplyDeletethe Himalayas, home of the snow, is the most impressive system of mountains on the earth, and for centuries the setting for epic feats of exploration.
ReplyDeletetrekking in india
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ReplyDeleteFail to find words to appreciate you for sharing your beautiful photographs and introducing thereby the wonderful places in this part of Kumaon in eastern Uttarakhand in India to people around the world.
ReplyDeleteGreat write up and photographs, Raj. I loved going through all your travelogues, in a single sitting - armchair travel as good as it gets. Wish there were more.
ReplyDeleteCan you also share something on the logistics - like the team size (or solo?), equipment, a hand-drawn route map with details you found unique, itinerary, food items, etc? Cheers, and thanks again.
Thank you all for your words of appreciation. This place Sipu, the last village in Darma valley can be reached via Dharchula in Pithoragarh district of Uttarakhand. Now a motorable road is being constructed till Tidang. That makes life easier for villagers and also for the movement of border police and army. I went there in 2009 to visit my in-laws.
ReplyDeleteLet me know if any of you want to visit these frontier places near Indo-Tibet border.
guvaraj at gmail.com