tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-42350539872987738052024-03-13T20:52:23.339+05:30HILLS OF KUMAONUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger4125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4235053987298773805.post-41350228579492767892012-07-21T22:50:00.000+05:302012-07-22T07:03:52.361+05:30Trade with Tibet through Darma valley before 1962<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FuGo698i6LE/UArch-kN1NI/AAAAAAAABUY/eqfpfBzTnwY/s1600/darma+shaukas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FuGo698i6LE/UArch-kN1NI/AAAAAAAABUY/eqfpfBzTnwY/s320/darma+shaukas.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Darma people (1897 )</td></tr>
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The year 1962 is a watershed year in the history of Darma valley. The border with Tibet was closed off after the unfortunate war with China. With that came a momentous change in the economy and culture. It affected many aspects of life in these valleys. But what was it like doing business with Huniyas ( Tibetans) before all this happened? What was the life style like for a typical Darma trader? Here is an account by Makhan Jha and the paintings are by Henry Savage-Landour who visited Darma valley in 1897. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-up1LpNWJtxM/UArYlTI3e_I/AAAAAAAABT0/FWSBAFaU6kY/s1600/goats+carrying+borax.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="464" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-up1LpNWJtxM/UArYlTI3e_I/AAAAAAAABT0/FWSBAFaU6kY/s640/goats+carrying+borax.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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The winter
settlements of the Darma Bhotia are the localities like Tejam, Sobla, Nyu, Dharchula, Balwakot, Galanti and
Kalika.Leaving the families in these villages. the traders set out
for their operations. First. they go to the trade fairs held at
Jauljibi. Thal and Bageshwar. in successive time order. where substantial
bulkof imported goods. particularly wool, woollen products.,
horse, pony. etc. are sold. As these fairs are over. the traders laden
the carrier animals for the phase of trading in sub-mountain
market centres_en route the local hill villages. The Darmi traders
reach their traditional foothills mandi at Tanakpur via
Pithoragarh and Lohaghat. The villages which lie surrounding this route are fre-quented by these traders where. principally. Salt, cereal,
barter would take place. Borax was also bartered with cereals of
the Kumaoni villages. But for wool and woollen products the
Bhotia normally liked cash though from traditional customers they
used to accept kind also. that is. grains realizing huge profit
margins by artful bargainings. From Tanakpur mandi they used to
procure jaggery. unrefined and refined sugar, cloth, leather products,
tea and fancy items and the richer traders even used to go to
Bareily or Kanpur for selling Tibetan goods and acquiring the aforesaid Indian items.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ck4TmHfZMxk/UAtXaHFfYcI/AAAAAAAABUw/fJIxVUhrKBQ/s1600/location2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="529" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ck4TmHfZMxk/UAtXaHFfYcI/AAAAAAAABUw/fJIxVUhrKBQ/s640/location2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Darma valley - A view from above</td></tr>
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Except for very brief periods during summer and winter seasons the traders remained on the move. Only the strong-limbed.
able-bodied. courageous fellows of the family belonged to this
class.some of whom even would go to the distant mart Gartok (Tibet).or thrice in a year to the Tibetan and foot hlll marts as
against twice by the average traders.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HC2_DujH17Q/UArZ7r617LI/AAAAAAAABUM/T9A3jLYCok0/s1600/caravan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HC2_DujH17Q/UArZ7r617LI/AAAAAAAABUM/T9A3jLYCok0/s640/caravan.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A trade caravan on a high pass...</td></tr>
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Traders of Darma valley had a few intermediate stations for stockpiling the export goods. A systematic pattern was
evolved for conveniently carrying the merchandise from the sub-montane Indian marts to the Tibetan centres and vice versa. A few intermediate stations were famous tor dumping the goods.
These were Sobla (located at lower Darma. 5 km downhill of last
Bhotia village Dar which is non-migratory). and the high altitude
villages closer to Tibetan boundary. The export goods acquired from Tanakpur and the hill villages. were initially dumped at
Sobla by 2-3 trips within winter. when all the goods had thus been
stocik piled.preparations were done to shift those to the high altitude
(for example. Duktu. Go. Bidng, Dantu) dumping spots closer to
border where from the goods could be transported to Tibetan marts
within short time. By mid~July when the passes opened the
transportation of goods from Sobla to the high altitude was completed by
3-5 trips. This commenced since May end and the activity picked
up by mid—June with gradual receding of snow. Though the
distances are shorter than the pretty long route of Tanakpur-Sobla.
still the rough terrain and strenuous trekking would compel to
undertake more trips as the carrier animals had to be laden lighter. </div>
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Alter the Hariyala festival. final departure for Tibet would us-ually occur and the first batch of traders used to cross the
borderline by 15 July. The average Darmi traders usually did trade at
Silti Chhungra (smaller mart) in adjacent Tibetan region while the
bigger traders also visited Gyanima (Tibet). it took at least nine days
to reach Silti Chhungra from the southem most Bhotia village
Dar in Darma valley. A trader of Dar would make night halts at the camping grounds (parao) in successive order. Sela,. Nagling,. Duktu. Bidang. Pingru,
Dawe the last being at the bottom of Nuwe pass. The conditions beyond Go village used to become quite ditlicult. The firewood had to be carried alter Bidang parao
as vegetation would disappear completely after this camp. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1W729rEceY/UArfsjILiWI/AAAAAAAABUk/yZ4nV8w_DiA/s1600/nui+glacier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1W729rEceY/UArfsjILiWI/AAAAAAAABUk/yZ4nV8w_DiA/s400/nui+glacier.jpg" width="275" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A glacier on the way to the Darma pass</td></tr>
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The most tiring march would start alter Dawe. as to reach
the next parao. Mangwal (the first Tibetan camp site for the Darni
traders).the pass Nuwe had to be crossed by a steep ascending of
about six miles. At points. the route was so badly narrow and
risky that the sheep and goat had to be unladened first. then crossed
and then the traders carried the loads themselves. to be
reloaded on the carrier animals. Bigger transport animals like jabu,. Pony,
horse were utilized up to Dawe parao and the terrains of the pass prevented their further march. Besides. to avoid the strong
cold winds fatigue from the steep ascent. the Bhotia initiated
journey at daybreak (around 3 am) as they used to be anxious to
overcome the above hazards. On reaching the Mangwal parao (Tibet) alter 12 days long trekking. they would halt for the night and the
following noon they would reach their traditional chhungra (mart) of
Silti where the Tibetan traders also used to assemble…</div>
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From “The
Himalayas: An Anthropological perspective”</div>
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By Makhan Jha</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nHyOCb4Be9M/UArZ1_d0psI/AAAAAAAABUE/gQgU65wgVQ8/s1600/tibetan+goat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="310" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nHyOCb4Be9M/UArZ1_d0psI/AAAAAAAABUE/gQgU65wgVQ8/s400/tibetan+goat.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tibetan Goat</td></tr>
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Now it is all history. The times have changed. The present is very different. The trade and the associated life style is all part of the cultural memory. The old traders are almost gone.Very few remember the stories of the past. In this page I brought together whatever the text and images I could find about this chapter of the Darma valley history. </div>
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4235053987298773805.post-5003730203531474952012-06-11T08:50:00.000+05:302012-07-22T06:26:31.511+05:30Charthi trek - Location and Map<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KVx0wicYR_w/T9VCesEU3QI/AAAAAAAAA-s/6VruKT2Ihlk/s1600/Elagad+charthi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="339" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KVx0wicYR_w/T9VCesEU3QI/AAAAAAAAA-s/6VruKT2Ihlk/s640/Elagad+charthi.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-se4ebaDuGj4/T9VCf__QXGI/AAAAAAAAA-0/IcFiWVesGok/s1600/charthi+view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="331" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-se4ebaDuGj4/T9VCf__QXGI/AAAAAAAAA-0/IcFiWVesGok/s640/charthi+view.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4235053987298773805.post-62718586483800502162010-03-28T07:07:00.005+05:302012-07-22T06:35:56.246+05:30Villages in Lasser Yankthi valley<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Lasser Yankthi River in Darma valley ,October, 2009</b></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;">There is an early snowfall in Darma valley this year. The people are yet to vacate their summer villages. The agricultural operations for the season are almost over. They are busy making their last minute preparations like drying the grain and herbs. </span></div>
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<span style="color: black;">Here are some images of my day hike to Sipu village from Tidang along Lasser yankthi river. The weather was absolutely clear. Not a single trace of cloud in the sky. </span> </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66sYQ_iOiI/AAAAAAAAAcs/a-FOVfYz9k8/s1600/Autum+colors.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66sYQ_iOiI/AAAAAAAAAcs/a-FOVfYz9k8/s640/Autum+colors.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Dhauli Ganga river as seen from Dakar village (Towards Dantu )</div>
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<img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66sbxFsZyI/AAAAAAAAAc0/5vRmBTZgfQs/s640/Autumn+snow.jpg" width="640" /></div>
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Lasser Yankthi river: A view from Marcha </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S6629eEjs0I/AAAAAAAAAfs/KhMdf7ZeM3w/s1600/Towards+Bidang+from+Dakar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S6629eEjs0I/AAAAAAAAAfs/KhMdf7ZeM3w/s640/Towards+Bidang+from+Dakar.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The path to Bidang - From where one can cross Sin la to enter into Byas valley and see Parvati Tal. Chota kailash at Jolingkong. Also from Bidang, by following Dhauliganga to its origin, Dawe, Darma pass can be reached. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66sehypYZI/AAAAAAAAAc8/xFMxvcASuh0/s1600/Dakar+village.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66sehypYZI/AAAAAAAAAc8/xFMxvcASuh0/s640/Dakar+village.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Dakar village. See the stone temple and Alam ( Birch pole ) worshipped by the people</div>
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<img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66sg2zIpzI/AAAAAAAAAdE/N5yjmt0_sNA/s640/Dhauli+Ganga+valley+view+from+Dakar+village.jpg" width="640" /></div>
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From Dakar village towards Dantu. </div>
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The field are not cultivated thesedays as more and more natives stay in the lower hills or plains. Dakar is virtually deserted. Not more than ten villagers come here in the summers for cultivation.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66siMGD6qI/AAAAAAAAAdM/pJ67Vx74ewQ/s1600/Dhauli+Ganga+valley+in+autumn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66siMGD6qI/AAAAAAAAAdM/pJ67Vx74ewQ/s640/Dhauli+Ganga+valley+in+autumn.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It's Autumn time. </div>
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The upper Lasser yankthi river valley is a riot of browns, oranges, yellows, scarletts. A view from Sipu village. Down flows Lasser yankthi river.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66spB0Y9mI/AAAAAAAAAdU/6C_UMVkSFpE/s1600/Tidang+village.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66spB0Y9mI/AAAAAAAAAdU/6C_UMVkSFpE/s640/Tidang+village.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66ssJj6NMI/AAAAAAAAAdc/WZCulkQvF6U/s1600/Tidang+houses.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66ssJj6NMI/AAAAAAAAAdc/WZCulkQvF6U/s640/Tidang+houses.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Tidang village. It is situated at the confluence of Lasser yankthi and Dhauli Ganga rivers.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66szEoypcI/AAAAAAAAAdk/GEbIL7m7Guk/s1600/Sheep+at+Tidang.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66szEoypcI/AAAAAAAAAdk/GEbIL7m7Guk/s640/Sheep+at+Tidang.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Apart from native villagers, Gaddi shephards from Himachal Pradesh bring their flocks of sheep for grazing in the high altitude pastures. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66s1GDEQpI/AAAAAAAAAds/vLHDcrJW6HE/s1600/Lasser+yankthi+river+at+Tidang.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66s1GDEQpI/AAAAAAAAAds/vLHDcrJW6HE/s640/Lasser+yankthi+river+at+Tidang.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Lasser Yankthi river at Tidang. In the distance you can see the snow laden track that goes towards Bidang.. </div>
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<img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66uDcskwyI/AAAAAAAAAd8/KjUAdQfrGbo/s640/Marcha.jpg" width="640" /> </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66uKZGfEkI/AAAAAAAAAeE/kj6XrE1BMX4/s1600/Marcha+village.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">Marcha village.</a></div>
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This too wears a deserted look. It is said that that the Marcha bhotiyas of Niti- Mana valleys in Garhwal migrated from this village ( or it could be vice versa ). In the heydays of trade with Tibet, all these high valley people must be meeting in the trade centers of Tibet and some migration must have taken place. It's easier and less time taking in summers to go to the valleys in Garhwal via Tibet plains than crossing high passes in the Himalaya.</div>
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Another view of Marcha village.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66uXVI7AMI/AAAAAAAAAeM/3PfW738yulY/s1600/Towards+Tidang+from+Marcha.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66uXVI7AMI/AAAAAAAAAeM/3PfW738yulY/s640/Towards+Tidang+from+Marcha.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A view of Tidang from Marcha.. In the middle is Lasser Yankthi river. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66uciV5-rI/AAAAAAAAAeU/uuU3Vwelei4/s1600/Bridge+across+lasser+yankthi+to+reach+Sipu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66uciV5-rI/AAAAAAAAAeU/uuU3Vwelei4/s640/Bridge+across+lasser+yankthi+to+reach+Sipu.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The bridge across Lasser yankthi. Sipu is some 2 km from Marcha village. One goes about 1 km along the Lasser yankthi and then crosses the river. Then there is a climb to reach the higher ground on which Sipu is situated.. </div>
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<img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66umztQdEI/AAAAAAAAAec/UldpGf_fXW0/s640/Sipu+ridge+as+seen+from+Marcha.jpg" width="640" /></div>
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The road to Sipu village.</div>
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See the ridge in the middle of the picture, where Sipu is located. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66uuurLyOI/AAAAAAAAAek/EkVUkSRIfTQ/s1600/Sipu+village.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66uuurLyOI/AAAAAAAAAek/EkVUkSRIfTQ/s640/Sipu+village.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Sipu temple premises. </div>
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Round and elongated stones are worshipped as Sivalinga. </div>
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l<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66u3FhTmsI/AAAAAAAAAes/SubIp3NPkuc/s1600/Sipu+mandir.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66u3FhTmsI/AAAAAAAAAes/SubIp3NPkuc/s640/Sipu+mandir.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66vIIPQlBI/AAAAAAAAAe8/14d1-awO7q4/s1600/Chaudhara+as+seen+from+Sipu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> </div>
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Sipu mandir where Shiva is worshipped/ I guess it's Chaudhara mountain peaks in the background..</div>
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<img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66vSyAEJbI/AAAAAAAAAfE/MHyKoiizmwE/s640/Sipu+in+Autumn.jpg" width="640" /> </div>
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Sipu village landscape.</div>
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As it's October and the the cultivation for the season is completed, the handful of villagers started moving to their winter homes in Tall Naya Basti near Kalika ( Dharchula Tehsil ) </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66wEqDN6BI/AAAAAAAAAfc/VIj-eoaUxZ8/s1600/upper+lasser+yankthi+valley+from+Sipu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S66wEqDN6BI/AAAAAAAAAfc/VIj-eoaUxZ8/s640/upper+lasser+yankthi+valley+from+Sipu.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Upper Lasser Yankthi river valley from Sipu village. Towards Pokong, Dongrong, Kharsa, Domolia, and Nassa. Follow the river upstream for 12km to reach Anchari tal. </div>
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Mani Stone found near Sipu village.a reminder that once there was greater interaction with traders from Tibet and the religion too. These stones are found in many villages and worshipped, though there is no trace of Buddhism practiced in this part of India</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S7Rjqn2Gj8I/AAAAAAAAAf0/Nyx8rmVOBmo/s1600/Sipu+glacier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/S7Rjqn2Gj8I/AAAAAAAAAf0/Nyx8rmVOBmo/s640/Sipu+glacier.jpg" width="480" /> </a></div>
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Chaudhara peaks from Sipu. Beyond these peaks is Ralam valley.</div>
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4235053987298773805.post-13207934460506048952009-09-11T06:34:00.022+05:302015-12-09T23:41:45.434+05:30Lesser known places in Eastern Kumaon bordering Tibet and Nepal<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5380014415892781234" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8Vp6tvlJLDY/Sqmmm1HFGLI/AAAAAAAAAB0/ypmfkVPInGQ/s320/Jauljibi.bmp" style="display: block; height: 292px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 571px;" /><br />
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The bridge over Mahakali river at Jauljibi connecting India and Nepal<br />
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First a disclaimer: The terms "lesser known", "less visited" make sense only for non native-people and general tourists. For me and others who scour the web for information on these places, these places are less visited by travellers and also less reported and posted on the web. And similarly the words like 'remote', 'accessibility', etc are applicable for the non locals like me. To say that a place is remote is to take a point of view. It tells about the viewer as much. It is from where I am located, these places look remote, hidden, wild, mysterious, secret, untrodden, off beat, undiscovered... Remoteness has its charm and attraction for outsiders.<br />
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In these pages I would like to share my experiences of the places I visited in Kumaon. Other than <a href="http://www.indiamike.com/india/uttarakhand-f135/niti-mana-and-darma-valley-photos-and-info-t13059/">Darma valley (Panchachuli East base camp</a>) , Johar valley (Milam/Nandadevi-East base camp), Adi kailash in Vyas ( Byans) valley, most of the places are off the tourist map and less visited. Mostly the treks and travels in Pithoragarh district and along India-Nepal border. A few treks are also along Maha Kali river that constitutes the boundary between the two countries. The far western Nepal too is less visited by outsiders even though the famous Kailas - Mansarovar Yatra through Lipulekh goes along the course of Mahakali river. <br />
The aim is to let the people around the world know about this remote corner of India. Most of the places are in Gori Ganga and Kali Ganga valleys and their side valleys.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://sites.google.com/site/hillsofkumaon/home/location">Where on earth? <span style="font-size: small;"> </span></a></span></i><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://sites.google.com/site/hillsofkumaon/home/location"><span style="font-size: small;"> Maps and Satellite Images</span></a> </span></div>
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<b>Darma Valley</b> <br />
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Kuncha - The annual migration of a Rung family from lower hills and high altitude village.<br />
( May 2012 ) <br />
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The return journey ( Oct 2009 ) : "Kuncha"<br />
A Rung family migrating to lower altitudes after the summer stay in Darma<br />
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Darma Valley visits:<br />
July 2003 |June 2004 | June 2005 | June 2006 | October 2009 | May 2012 | Sept 2012<br />
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Explorations in Darma valley:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YVZJPsYvRc0/T_Ln8DH7UPI/AAAAAAAABS0/MMLiYKG2HZc/s1600/buddha2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="261" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YVZJPsYvRc0/T_Ln8DH7UPI/AAAAAAAABS0/MMLiYKG2HZc/s320/buddha2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Bidang - Boudh Mandir and Sacred stones at Bidang camping ground ( May 2012 )<br />
Bidang ( Sept 2012 ) <br />
Tidang, Bidang , Khimling, Pungrung, Dawe, Parvati tal (Towards Darma pass ) June 2006<br />
<a href="http://hillsofkumaon.blogspot.com/2010/03/villages-in-lasser-yakthi-valley.html">Sipu and other villages in Lasser Yankthi valley - Oct, 2009</a><br />
Upper Lasser Yankthi Valley - Towards Anchari Tal June 2006<br />
Panchchuli Base from Duktu <br />
Along Nyuli yankthi from Dantu ( Towards Pun Gam Dangtho)<br />
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/guvaraj/RangjaktiTalDarmaValley">Rangjakthi tal above Son village</a><br />
Titam peak (where remains of an ancient fort/temple lie )<br />
Dantu-Duktu-Bon-Phillum-Hula-Go-Dantu : Circular trek<br />
Puja at Gabladev Mandir( June 2006 )<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68764865@N00/sets/72157622937550955/"> Darma valley: A family visit - Oct 2009</a><br />
Colors of Monsoon - Darma trek- Sept 2012<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vdpI8KqGjgo/UWORT6TKp3I/AAAAAAAABWQ/BA619eTn3cI/s1600/Darma.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vdpI8KqGjgo/UWORT6TKp3I/AAAAAAAABWQ/BA619eTn3cI/s400/Darma.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i><b>Some where beyond Dawe </b></i>- <i><b>Circa 1883</b></i></span></div>
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Behind these snows is Hun Desh ( Tibet )</div>
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<b>From the Middle Himalaya :</b> <br />
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Jauljibi and its environs<br />
Jauljibi fair<br />
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/guvaraj/HorsesFromHumlaJumla#">Horses from Humla / Jumla ( Nepal )</a><br />
Baram - Kanar ( Maa Bhagawathi - Kokila mandir ) - along Gosi gad<br />
Seraghat - Bona- alone Paina gad<br />
Gori ganga valley and some of the villages- Gori Chhaal<br />
Ghatta Bagad Shivrathri fair ( Feb-2006) near Baram<br />
<a href="http://www.orkut.co.in/Main#Album?uid=13427830115113023965&aid=1261160741">Jauljibi - Duti - Gana gaon ( where Van Raji people live) - Kimkhola</a><br />
Garkha ( Ogla - Bhagi Chaura - Dangti- Dungra- Bagri hat )<br />
Baira - Bijodi - Bagri hat<br />
<a href="http://sites.google.com/site/hillsofkumaon/home/hamseswar-near-jauljibi">Hamseswar Mandir ( Titari )</a><br />
Jauljibi - Dyoda - Taleshwar - Along Maha Kali river<br />
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Askot ( Mallikarjun and Deval Mandir) <br />
Didihat - Narayan Nagar - Askot ridge walk<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68764865@N00/sets/72157623021444220/">Askot - Garjia - Jauljibi walk</a><br />
Fishing in Raunthis gad ( Garjia )<br />
Didihat- Sandev ( Ghorpatta / Chaubati ) - Sirakot ( Malaynath Mandir)<br />
Kalika - Khumthi<br />
Balwakot - Paiya-Paudi - Ghatta Bagar ( Kali ganga - Gori ganga traverse )<br />
Chaudas : Narayan Ashram - Sosa - Pangu - Kanchauti <br />
Dobat - Ranthi - Huskar mandir - Kulagad<br />
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Paleta - Dwaj ( Jayanthi Mandir) - Satgarh- 2008<br />
Dwaj Jayanthi mandir - Feb 2011<br />
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Pithoragarh - Ancholi - Badabe - Thal kedar mandir - Jan 2011<br />
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Trekked to 3 temples in Feb 2011 from Choukori/ Dharamghar :<br />
Shikhar ( Mool Nag or Mool Narayan mandir, 2700 mts )<br />
Bhanar ( Bajain Mandir )<br />
Sangad ( Nauling Mandir )<br />
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Makar Sankranthi mela (Fair) at Thal Jan 2011<br />
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Pheninag mandir near Kameri Devi - Jan 2011<br />
Kotgarhi Mandir near Pankhu - Jan 2011<br />
Nandadevi Mandir at Thala village - Jan 2011<br />
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Nag Devta Mandir - Berinag - May 2012<br />
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Lambkeshwar ( Near Jhaltola ) - Dec 2012<br />
Gangolihat , Guptari and Patal Bhuvneshwar ( Including their Ancient temples )- Dec 2012<br />
Choukori and Tripura Devi Mandir ( Near Berinag ) - Dec 2012<br />
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A trek inside Nepal along Mahakali river:<br />
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/guvaraj/ATrekToUkooVillage#" style="color: black;"> Jauljibi - Ukoo village</a>( where the ruins of a magnificient temple lie scattered and a strange script on a rock are found. Some say it's connected to Ashoka's kingdom. This is a very fertile land and there are endless fields cultivated throughout the year. No wonder there are jamindars with large land holdings and prosperous peasants and with a rich cultural past). <br />
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And some places in Champawat district:<br />
Champawat - Baleshwar Mandir<br />
Abbot Mount ( Lohaghat - Marora khan )<br />
Mayavati Ashram ( Lohaghat ) - Dharamgarh ( Where Swami Vivekananda meditated )<br />
Purnagiri ( Punyagiri ) Mandir ( Near Tanakpur ) & Sharda ghat - Dec 2012 <br />
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<b>Charthi Kharak </b>- A visit in search of "insect gold" ( Cater pillar Fungus / Yartsa Gambu ) May-June 2012<br />
<a href="http://hillsofkumaon.blogspot.in/2012/06/charthi-trek-day-1.html">Location and Sat. pictures of the place</a>.<br />
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Wool Tour 2014 : Berinag - Choukori - Bala - Munsiari - Jauljibi - Kalika - Dharchula<br />
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Kaaphal Hill Farm, Choukori - March 2015 <br />
Thal - Baltir village - Ek Haathiya Dewal Mandir - March 2015<br />
Hokara Devi mandir ( Tejam - Dekuna - Mansuri kantha - Khoyam - Hokara ) - March 2015<br />
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Kaaphal Hill farm, Choukori, November 2015<br />
Berinag, Sarla Ben Ashram<br />
Pingal Nag trek November 2015 <br />
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<b><span style="color: blue;">Upcoming treks and travels</span>:</b></h4>
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<b>See this: <a href="http://www.indiamike.com/photopost/data/500/sera-darma.jpg">Satellite image of the area with names of places </a></b><br />
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Chipla Kot<b> ( </b>Chhipla<b> </b>Kot, Chipla Kedar ). <b> </b>This lies on Gori Ganga - Kali/Dhauli Ganga divide in Dharchula region. As the locals say there are eighteen possible ways to reach this place. This place is full of small lakes and bugyals. For the people around this region, its a sacred place and treated with respect. An important puja takes place every 3 years.<br />
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Of late this place became a rich ground for sourcing Yartsa - Gambu ( Keeda -Jadi ) or Caterpiller Fungus that attracts thousands of people every year after the snow melts. This is used in Chinese medicine as a panacea and fetches vast sums of money to the collectors and middle men. This magic herb is smuggled to Tibet across Nepal and ultimately to Chinese mainland transforming the fortunes of people involved in this business.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s1aXOQdgwpE/UZSSkoM6TtI/AAAAAAAABXY/KXERVaABjq0/s1600/Yartsa+Gambu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="270" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s1aXOQdgwpE/UZSSkoM6TtI/AAAAAAAABXY/KXERVaABjq0/s400/Yartsa+Gambu.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yartsa Gambu or Caterpiller Fungus - A new found wealth in the higher Himalaya</td></tr>
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Some of the possible trek routes to Chhipla kot:<br />
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Baram - Kanar - Bhaiman cave - Kakrail Kund - Chipla kedar Kund - Najuri kot ( Highest point )<br />
Banga pani - Chori bagar- Jara Jibli - Banani - Deothal - Chipla dhar _ Jumma - Elagad<br />
Tawaghat ( Khela ) - Barmano - Brahmkund - Kedar Dwe - Patouch Kund - Kanar Baram<br />
Tawaghat ( Khela ) - Teliyani Gufa - Pingu gufa - Naudev - Chipla kedar lake - Charthi kharak - Thalpa kharak- Sera top-Seraghat ( Dhauli Ganga - Gori Ganga traversal trek)<br />
Ela gad - Palpala village - Pingu - Brahmkund - Chipla kedar- Brahm kund- Pingu -Saumf village - Chirkila ( This route is partly trekked in 2012 - See Charthi Kharak above ) <br />
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Passes in this Area: <br />
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Ralam dhura and Balsi dhura connecting Gori and Dhauli valleys<br />
Gangchal dhura connecting Lasser Yankthi and Dhauli Ganga valleys<br />
Sin La ( or Lebung pass )connecting Dhauli/ Darma and Kuti valleys<br />
Nama pass connecting Kuti and Sela <br />
Chatem La connecting Kuti and Bidang<br />
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<b>In Dhauli Ganga/ Darma valley</b>:<br />
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Panchachuli Glaciers : A closer look: Nippa and Gabbe gwar ( Access from Dugtu )<br />
Nyulpa( Nelpa) gwar- Pun Gam Dang To (4500 mts)- Min Gam Dang To (Access from Dantu )<br />
( Villagers go there for harvesting certain herbs and roots found only in this area right under the shadow of Panchachuli peaks. Also there are some very grass rich pastures where shepherds take their flock and camp over there during the summer season )<br />
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Sulphur springs of Dar village.<br />
Side valley from Sela village to Basu and Chadangti camping grounds ( towards Nama pass to Kuti )<br />
Nagling Byaksi and Baling Byaksi ( Camping ground also called Gwar)<br />
Rama hut - Rama Glacier- Brahma Parvat base camp<br />
Sipu - Milti bai - Mahadev khola& Nipchukang gwar ( towards Ralam pass )<br />
Lassar yankthi glacier - Nassa bai ( Tal )<br />
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Himkhola - Syankuti - Karamdang bugyal - Nasa Marthi peak - Lan Darma valley <br />
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<b>In Gori ganga valley</b>:<br />
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Baram - Ghan dhura- Kaphalani <br />
Baram - Daphia dhura - Maitali <br />
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Madkot- Taumik - Bona - Daharti kharak- Guin Dhar- Jimba - Balchi dhura - Sumdum - Tejam - Sobla<br />
Madkot - Pyunshani gad - Panchachuli ( west ) basecamp<br />
Madkot - Walthi - Nirtoli<br />
Madkot - Basankot - Kultham - Kultham top <br />
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Munsiary - Thamri kund - Hum dhura - Harkot <br />
Munsiary - Bhujjani - Khalia top - Rurkhan - Rantham top - Sudam khan Kalamuni<br />
Munsiary - Ralam village - Shankapla glacier - Birjeganga pass - Tola - Milam ( Along Ralam gad )<br />
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<b>In Kali Ganga valley :</b><br />
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Dharchula - Galati - Ramtoli<br />
Kalika - Khumthi - Saikali dhar - Siddhnath Mandir - Kanar - Baram<br />
Baluwa Kot - Sira Bajani mandir ( Nepal )<br />
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<b>In Byas Valley </b><br />
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Api base camp from Gokuleashwar ( Nepal )<br />
Garbyang - Chhangru ( Nepal ) - Tinker ( Nepal ) & Nampa basecamp<br />
Brahma Parvat, Adi Kailash, Parvati Tal and Gauri kund trek <br />
Kuti - Jolingkong - Jamthi - Wilsha -( towards Lampiya dhura )<br />
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<b>Trekking and Trading in Taklakot </b>( Purang )<br />
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<b>In Ram Ganga Valley: </b><br />
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Thal- Hajeti FRH<br />
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Thal - Bansbagar - Dhamigaon - Banga pani - Gori valley<br />
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Patal Bhuvneshwar - Bhrigutunga peak<br />
Gangoli hat - Shaileshwar peak<br />
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Dewal Thal - Lori peak - Mallikarjun mandir <br />
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Other Nag temples near Berinag:<br />
Basuki Nag | Pingal Nag | Hari Nag | Dhauli Nag | Kali Nag | Peele Nag ---------<br />
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Pithoragarh and the neibouring Baitadi district in Nepal:<br />
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Pithoragarh : Ghunsera caves - Asurchula mandir<br />
Pithoragarh : Chandak - Udaipur fort<br />
Pithoragarh - Koteshwar peak (Drill hill)<br />
Pithoragarh- Lacher - Soar Lekh top - Naini Saini<br />
Pithoragarh - Bin - Kamaksha Mandir <br />
Pithoragarh - Kashni - Wadda -Jhulaghat - Baitadi ( Nepal )- Bala Tripura sundari mandir<br />
Pithoragarh - Wadda - Quitor - Haldu - Pancheshwar <br />
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Baitadi ( Nepal ) - Gokuleshwar - Misal Manthang - Khari - Dallekh - Darchula ( Nepal )<br />
Jauljibi - Pashti ( Nepal ) - Marma ( Nepal )<br />
Jauljibi - Dethala ( Nepal ) - Shikhar Mandir ( Nepal ) <br />
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Other Nag temples near Berinag:<br />
Basuki Nag | Pingal Nag | Hari Nag | Dhauli Nag | Kali Nag | Peele Nag<br />
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Didihat - Chaubati( San dev) - Shantikunj - Dev Chula - Jaurasi - Charma<br />
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Tracing the old trade route from Jauljivi to Garur - Bageswar via Garjia, Duna kot, Sini , <br />
Nachni and Danpur area<br />
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Jageshwar - Naini - Chandika ghat - Pithoragarh ( Trek )<br />
Lohaghat - Jhumadhuri mandir - Vanasur fort<br />
Lohaghat - Pulla - Pancheshwar <br />
Champawat - Manch - Gorakhnath ki dhuni<br />
Champawat - Hingla Devi Mandir<br />
Champawat - Kranteshwar Mandir<br />
Champawat - Banlekh - Nunchula mandir <br />
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In the footsteps of Jim Corbett ( Almora - Lamgara - Devidhura - Panar - Champawat - Manch - Chuka -Thak -Boom)<br />
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In Kali Kumaon - Along Mahakali/ SaradaRiver ( Jhulaghat - Pancheshwar - Manch -Tamli - Purnagiri)<br />
( Maha Kali is called Sarada as it enters the Plains of Uttar Pradesh near Tanakpur ) <br />
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<a href="http://hillsofkumaon.blogspot.in/2012/07/trade-with-tibet-through-darma-valley.html"><b>Trade with Tibet through Darma valley before 1962 </b></a></div>
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<b> <a href="http://articles/">Articles, Reports, travelogues and books on this area</a></b><br />
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<b><a href="http://pics/">Pictures taken in this region by others </a></b></div>
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<a href="http://hillsofkumaon.blogspot.com/2011/02/some-old-painings-of-kumaon.html"><b>Some old paintings of the Himalaya landscape</b></a></div>
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Keep visiting this page as this is an ongoing project and getting augmented frequently. Suggestions and comments are welcome.<br />
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<b>Though I have n't posted the details and pictures of all the places I have already visited, prospective travellers and explorers are welcome to contact me for information on these areas.</b></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>guvaraj at gmail dot com</b></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nNtsFwqI1as/T_h5qCxm2YI/AAAAAAAABTA/5V_3bGZP08Y/s1600/pingru+tent.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="257" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nNtsFwqI1as/T_h5qCxm2YI/AAAAAAAABTA/5V_3bGZP08Y/s400/pingru+tent.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Upper Darma valley</td></tr>
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